Cars

Georgia Vehicle Registration

Georgia Vehicle Registration: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction

Vehicle registration is an important process that every vehicle owner needs to go through. In Georgia, vehicle registration can be done online, via mail, or in person at the Georgia Department of Revenue or any authorized tag office. This article will provide a comprehensive guide to Georgia vehicle registration.

Documents Required for Georgia Vehicle Registration

To register a vehicle in Georgia, the following documents are required:

1. Title and registration application: This is the document that proves ownership of the vehicle. It is issued by the Georgia Department of Revenue or any authorized title agency.

2. Proof of Georgia residency: This can be a utility bill, lease agreement, or any document that shows that the vehicle owner is a Georgia resident.

3. Proof of insurance: Georgia law requires that every vehicle must be insured with liability coverage.

4. Georgia driver’s license: This is required for vehicle registration in Georgia.

5. Payment for registration fees and taxes: The fees and taxes vary depending on the type and model of the vehicle.

Steps to Register a Vehicle in Georgia

1. Obtain a title and registration application.

2. Obtain a Georgia driver’s license.

3. Obtain proof of Georgia residency.

4. Obtain proof of insurance.

5. Submit the title and registration application along with the required documents and fees to the Georgia Department of Revenue or any authorized tag office.

6. Once the application is processed and approved, the vehicle owner will receive a license plate, registration certificate, and validation decal.

Renewal of Georgia Vehicle Registration

Vehicle registration in Georgia must be renewed every year. The process can be done online, via mail, or in person at any authorized tag office. To renew the registration, the following documents are required:

1. Vehicle registration renewal notice: This is sent to the vehicle owner by mail.

2. Proof of insurance.

3. Payment for renewal fees and taxes.

4. Pass emissions testing: Some counties in Georgia require emissions testing before vehicle registration renewal.

Conclusion

Georgia vehicle registration is a straightforward process that requires the submission of the required documents and fees to the Georgia Department of Revenue or any authorized tag office. Vehicle owners must also renew their registration every year. It is important to ensure compliance with the Georgia vehicle registration requirements to avoid penalties and fines.

You will need to need to go through Georgia Vehicle registration process if you:

• Are a new resident of Georgia

• Just purchased a vehicle (new or used)

• Are transferring ownership of a vehicle

Regardless of the situation, everyone is given thirty (30) days to properly complete the Georgia Vehicle registration for their vehicles with the Department of Driver Services. This mean that means:

• If you have just purchased a vehicle or if you are transferring ownership of a vehicle, you have thirty (30) days from the date you officially become the vehicle’s owner to register the vehicle to complete your GA vehicle registration.

• If you have just moved from another state to Georgia, you have thirty (30) days from the date you establish residency in Georgia to complete your GA vehicle registration.

You must also have accident liability insurance for your motor vehicle, and show proof of it when completing your Georgia vehicle registration.

In most states, the paperwork is taken care of by a dealer if you have purchased a new vehicle from a dealership. However, if your situation does not involve a dealer, you will have to register your vehicle. You will need to have the following paperwork and documentation in order contacting the local County Tax Commissioner’s licensing office:

• Fill out a Title/Tag Application.

• Show proof of residency.

• Have your state-issued ID card or driver’s license.

• If needed, have your motor vehicle’s emissions inspected and get proof that your vehicle passed.

• If you are not completing your title and registration applications at the same time, you will need to show ownership of the vehicle.

• Have proof of insurance.

• If you are applying for only a registration your vehicle does not require a Georgia title, you will need to present the original registration certificate.

• If your current registration certificate is from a state that does not issue titles, you must get your Vehicle Inspection Number verified and you must show valid proof of this.

Registration Fees for Georgia Vehicle Registration

The flat registration fee for normal passenger vehicles as well as motorcycles is only $20, but there are many additional fees. You will pay more the very first time you register your vehicle in Georgia because you are also dealing with ad valorem tax, sales tax, and other title-related fees. The state of Georgia provides an outline of fees to expect depending on your personal situation.

License Plates for Georgia Vehicle Registration

You may transfer your previous vehicle’s license plates to your new one if both vehicles need the same type of plate during your GA vehicle registration. In addition to the standard and disabled license plates that are available from Georgia, you can choose other plates that are specialized or personalized.

Normally, your license plate’s decal is already placed in the bottom right corner of your plate after the GA vehicle registration. However, if you find that your sticker and plate are unattached, either follow the enclosed instructions or call your local County Tax Commissioner’s tag office to ask about your GA vehicle registration.

Hawaii Vehicle Registration

Hawaii Vehicle Registration: A Comprehensive Guide

Hawaii is one of the many states that require drivers to register their vehicles before they hit its roads. This process entails paying specific fees and providing necessary documents to the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). Here is what you need to know about Hawaii vehicle registration.

Who Needs to Register Their Vehicles?

Vehicle registration is imperative for anyone who wants to operate a motor vehicle on public roads in Hawaii. The registration process applies to all types of vehicles, including cars, trucks, motorcycles, trailers, and boats, to mention a few.

Registration Fees

Hawaii’s vehicle registration fees vary depending on the type and weight of the vehicle being registered. Some factors that affect vehicle registration fees include:

– The vehicle registration class
– The vehicle weight
– The location of the vehicle owner

Typically, the fees range from $45 to $450. Here are some of the fees based on vehicle class:

– Passenger vehicles – $45
– Electric vehicles – $50
– Motorcycle – $30
– Trailers – $12
– Trucks (4,500 lbs or less) – $45
– Trucks (over 4,500 lbs) – $55 to $450

Necessary Documents

To register your vehicle in Hawaii, you will need to provide the following documents:

– A current Hawaii motor vehicle insurance card
– A completed vehicle registration application form
– A valid safety inspection certificate
– Proof of your vehicle’s odometer reading
– Bill of sale, title or registration certificate if the vehicle was purchased from a dealer out of state
– Out of state registration if the vehicle was owned in another state

Renewal

Hawaii vehicle registrations are valid for one year, and car owners must renew their registration before it expires. The renewal notice is usually mailed to the car owner’s address a few weeks before the expiration date. Car owners can renew their registration online, by mail, or in person at a local DMV office.

Penalties for Non-Registration

Driving a vehicle without a valid registration is illegal in Hawaii and can result in fines and other penalties. Car owners who do not register their vehicles on time may face late fees, registration revocation, and even traffic tickets.

Conclusion

Registering your vehicle in Hawaii can be a hassle, but it is a legal requirement for operating a motor vehicle in the state. Understanding the necessary documents, fees, and renewal process makes the process less daunting. If you are unsure about the registration process, seek help from a reliable DMV office or legal expert.

First-Time Hawaii Vehicle Registration

If have recently purchased a used car, moved to Hawaii from either another state or a different county, or if you have become the new owner of a vehicle, you are required to register your vehicle for the first time. If you are getting your car shipped into Hawaii, you will need to need to register it within thirty (30) days.

Hawaii uses different forms and procedures for each county for Hawaii vehicle registration, so you will need to check with your specific county the correct information.

Before you are allowed to complete the Hawaii vehicle registration, you need to purchase Hawaiian auto insurance. If you have purchased your vehicle from a dealer, whether new or used, the dealer will typically handle the registration and titling for a fee, which is often included in the final price of the vehicle. But if you import a vehicle from another state, you will need to complete registration.

General Hawaii Vehicle registration

First you must fill out an application form. The only county to provide this form online is Hawaii County. If you live in any other county, you must visit your respective city hall office. Make sure that you have the correct no-fault car insurance with an authorized carrier licensed in the state of Hawaii. Otherwise, you might not have your car inspected. Find an inspection center and have your car properly inspected. The inspection center will then issue a Hawaii Inspection Certificate for about $15 that you will need when completing your Hawaii Vehicle Registration. There is usually an additional $5 fee for any post-factory tinted windows.

The proper fees for Hawaii vehicle registrations are determined by the weight of specific motor vehicles. You can get the vehicle weighed at either state weigh station or just look for the vehicle’s weight in the owner’s manual. You will need to bring in the proof of weight for your HI registration. You must take all of these documents to your local satellite city hall.

Transferring Registration from Out of State

If you are transferring your out-of-state registration to an HI vehicle registration, you will need to first get proper insurance with an agency that has the authority to provide insurance in Hawaii. You will also need your shipping document (or Bill of Lading), out-of-state registration card, and shipping receipt. You will still need to get your car inspected, which costs $15. Afterwards, you can fill out your registration your local satellite city hall office and also complete out of state permit application form from your local satellite city hall office.

Since this will be your first HI vehicle registration, you will need to purchase new license plates. Fill out a Tax Certification form and bring it with your title to your local satellite city hall office for your HI registration. Hawaii honors existing out-of-state registration so Hawaii registration will be pro-rated, meaning you will not need to pay the full fee until your HI registration expires. You will then receive your new license plates

Transferring from Another County of Hawaii Vehicle Registration

If you are transferring your HI registration from another county of Hawaii, you will need to go to your new county’s city hall office or motor vehicle office to get the new HI registration application, turn in your previous registration card, and show your vehicle title.

Idaho Vehicle Registration

Idaho Vehicle Registration: What You Need to Know

Are you a new resident in Idaho or do you need to register your vehicle for the first time? Here is everything you need to know about Idaho vehicle registration.

Documentation Required

To register your vehicle in Idaho, you’ll need to provide the following documents:

– Title: If you own your vehicle, you’ll need to provide the title or a copy of the title.

– Proof of insurance: You’ll need to provide proof of insurance that meets Idaho’s minimum requirements.

– Identification: Bring a valid driver’s license or state ID card.

– Payment: Bring payment for the registration fees and any applicable taxes.

Registration Fees

The cost of registering your vehicle in Idaho varies based on the type of vehicle you have, the year it was made, and where you live. Here are some common fees you can expect:

– Passenger vehicles: $35

– Motorcycles: $25

– Heavy vehicles: Fees vary based on weight

– Late fee: $20

Renewing Your Registration

You’ll need to renew your registration each year. Idaho’s vehicle registration expires on the last day of the month in which you registered your vehicle. You can renew your registration online, in person, or by mail.

In-Person: Go to your local DMV office and bring your registration renewal notice, proof of insurance, and payment.

Online: You can renew your registration online through the Idaho DMV website. You’ll need your license plate number, insurance information, and a credit or debit card to complete the transaction.

By Mail: You can also renew your registration by mail. Complete the renewal form and include a check or money order for the fees. Send the form and payment to your local DMV office.

Out-of-State Registration

If you plan to be in Idaho for more than 90 days, you’ll need to register your vehicle with the Idaho DMV. If you have a valid out-of-state registration, you’ll need to provide proof of ownership, insurance, and payment of the registration fees.

Conclusion

Registering your vehicle in Idaho is a simple process, and the fees are reasonable. Be sure to bring the required documents, and renew your registration each year to avoid any late fees. Safe travels!

There are many different scenarios where you will need to register your motor vehicle in your name, for an Idaho vehicle registration including:

• After establishing Idaho residency

• Buying a used car from a private party (not a dealer)

• Transferring ownership to of a vehicle from family, inheritance, or as a gift

After purchasing a vehicle within the state lines of Idaho, you have thirty (30) days to register that vehicle. If you delay your Idaho vehicle registration beyond this deadline, you will be charged an additional $20 late fee for your tardiness. If you have acquired the motor vehicle in a different state, the thirty (30) days deadline for Idaho vehicle registration begins the very first day that you bring the vehicle from another state into Idaho. If you are a brand new resident of Idaho, you will be given ninety (90) days to register your vehicle through the Division of Motor Vehicles. It is important to note that you must title your vehicle before attempting to register it.

Getting Insurance before Your Idaho Vehicle Registration

Before you can register your motor vehicle, you are required by Idaho vehicle registration laws to make sure that your vehicle has liability insurance. The provider of the insurance must be authorized to provide insurance within that state.

Preparing Paperwork for Your Idaho Vehicle Registration

If you are purchasing a motor vehicle through a dealership, the dealer will complete the title application for your vehicle. You will then have to take this title application your local county assessor’s office in order to complete your ID vehicle registration. Remember, you must first title your vehicle before you can complete your ID registration.

If you have just very recently relocated your residency to Idaho or if you have just bought a used vehicle from a private party, you need to complete the following steps for your ID vehicle registration:

• Have the title of the vehicle signed-over to you.

• Fill out and complete the title application.

• Pay any applicable ID registration fees.

Calculate Fees for an Idaho Vehicle Registration

There are many different variables involved in figuring out your exact ID registration fees, including the specific county of residence and the age of your motor vehicle.

First-Time Fees for ID Vehicle Registration

You will most likely see some additional charges when you register your vehicle for the very first time. Depending on the situation, you may be charged for new license plates, postage for mailing the new license plates or a Vehicle Identification Number inspection.

Once you have your documents in order and prepared, you can bring them all to your local county assessor’s office in order to complete your ID registration for your vehicle. While there, you will also need to order license plates for your motor vehicle. You can choose from a standard plate which costs $25, or you can opt for a specialty plate or a vanity plate. You will then have to stick your ID registration stickers on your license plate, which confirms that you are legally registered in the state of Idaho. You must affix the decals to your rear plate.

DMV Registration Renewal

You need to renew your motor vehicle’s registration every year in accordance with Idaho law through the DMV registration renewal process. Additionally, you must also keep your car insurance at all times. You will receive a DMV registration renewal notice in the mail that lets you know. Unlike many other states, there are no late registration fees for Georgia. You can complete your DMV registration renew by mail, in person, or online.

Illinois Vehicle Registration

Illinois Vehicle Registration: Everything You Need to Know

In Illinois, vehicle registration is an essential task that all vehicle owners must complete. The process involves submitting a set of documents to the Illinois Secretary of State’s office to receive a license plate and registration sticker for your vehicle. In this article, we will guide you through the Illinois vehicle registration process and answer all your questions.

Car Registration Documentation Requirements

To register your vehicle, you will need to provide the following documents:

– A completed Vehicle Registration Application (Form VSD 190) – more details below on how to fill it out and supporting documentation
– A title certificate or proof of ownership
– Proof of Illinois auto insurance
– Payment for registration fees and taxes

If you purchased your vehicle from a dealer, they will usually handle the registration process for you. In that case, you may only be required to provide proof of insurance.

Registration Fees and Taxes

Illinois vehicle registration fees vary depending on factors such as vehicle type, weight, and age. Generally, passenger cars that are less than three years old require a $151 registration fee, while vehicles that are older than three years are charged $101.

In addition, you will need to pay an annual vehicle tax based on the age and value of your vehicle. If you have recently moved to Illinois, you may be required to pay a higher tax rate if your vehicle was not previously registered in Illinois.

Non-Resident Vehicle Registration

If you are a non-resident of Illinois but own a vehicle that is housed in the state, you may still be required to register your vehicle with the Illinois Secretary of State’s office. This is typically the case if you reside in another state but work in Illinois or if you are a student attending school in Illinois.

To register your vehicle as a non-resident, you will need to provide the following documents:

– A completed Non-Resident Vehicle Registration Application (Form RUT-50) – more details below on how to fill it out and supporting documentation
– Proof of ownership or a lease agreement
– Evidence of insurance
– Payment of registration fees and taxes

Renewing Your Registration

Illinois vehicle registrations are typically valid for one year. Before the expiration date, you will receive a renewal notice from the Secretary of State’s Office. You can renew your registration online, by mail, or in person at a Secretary of State facility.

Late registration renewal fees are charged at a rate of $20 per month, up to a maximum of $100.

Replacing Lost or Stolen License Plates

If you lose your license plates or they are stolen, you will need to report the loss to the police and obtain a police report. You can then apply for a new set of plates by submitting a License Plate Replacement Application (Form VSD 404) to the Secretary of State’s Office. The replacement fee is $29 for a set of plates.

Form VSD 190

Form VSD190 is an essential document for individuals looking to transfer ownership of a vehicle in the United Kingdom. This article aims to provide a comprehensive guide on how to fill out Form VSD190 and the supporting documents required during the process.

What is Form VSD190?

Form VSD190 is a legal document that serves as evidence of the transfer of vehicle ownership. It is issued and processed by the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA), which is responsible for maintaining a database of all vehicles in the UK. The form has to be completed and submitted by the seller of the vehicle when transferring ownership to the buyer.

How to fill out Form VSD190

Filling out Form VSD190 is a straightforward process that requires careful attention to details. Here are the steps to follow.

Step 1: Obtain a copy of Form VSD190

The first step is to obtain a copy of Form VSD190. The form is available for download on the DVLA website, and it can be printed and filled out manually or filled out online. It is essential to ensure that the latest version of the form is used to avoid any complications during the process.

Step 2: Provide Details of the Vehicle

The next step is to provide details of the vehicle being transferred, such as the registration number, make, model, and color. These details can be found on the vehicle registration certificate (V5C), commonly known as a logbook. If the seller has lost the V5C, they can apply for a new one from the DVLA.

Step 3: Provide Details of the Seller

The seller is required to provide their full name, address, and contact details. They should ensure that the information provided is accurate and up-to-date to avoid any complications during the process.

Step 4: Provide Details of the Buyer

The buyer’s full name, address, and contact details must be provided. The seller should ensure that the information provided is accurate and up-to-date to avoid any complications during the process.

Step 5: Confirm Transfer Details

The seller should confirm the date of the transfer and whether they sold the vehicle for cash or as a gift. They should also confirm whether they retained the vehicle’s registration number or transferred it to the buyer.

Step 6: Provide Declaration

The seller is required to sign and date the declaration on the form, confirming that the information provided is true and accurate. They should also provide their driving license number and the date it was issued.

Step 7: Submit the Form

Finally, the seller should submit the completed Form VSD190 to the DVLA. It is essential to keep a copy of the form for personal records.

Supporting Documents needed

In addition to Form VSD190, the seller must provide supporting documents to complete the transfer of ownership. Here are the required documents.

1. Vehicle Registration Certificate (V5C)

The V5C, commonly known as the logbook, is a vital document that serves as proof of ownership of the vehicle. The seller should provide the V5C to the buyer, who will need it to apply for road tax and insurance.

2. MOT Certificate

The MOT certificate, also known as the test certificate, is mandatory for all vehicles over three years old in the UK. The certificate confirms that the vehicle met the minimum safety and environmental standards during the MOT test.

3. Service History

The service history shows the maintenance records of the vehicle and any repairs or replacements that were done during its life span. The seller should provide the service history to the buyer to give them insight into the condition and history of the vehicle.

4. HPI Report

The HPI report is a document that provides information on the history of a vehicle, including any outstanding finance and insurance claims. The seller should obtain an HPI report and provide it to the buyer to assure them that the vehicle is free from any financial obligations.

Conclusion

Form VSD190 is an essential legal document required to transfer ownership of a vehicle in the United Kingdom. By carefully following the steps provided in this guide, sellers can fill out the form correctly and submit it to the DVLA without any complications. It is also essential to provide the required supporting documents to complete the transfer of ownership successfully. With this information at hand, individuals can be confident when transferring ownership of their vehicle.

FORM RUT-50

Form RUT-50 is a legal document issued by the Illinois Department of Revenue, used to report the sale or transfer of a vehicle, watercraft, or aircraft in the state of Illinois. The Form RUT-50 is required by law for any private party sale or transfer of a vehicle in Illinois. This article aims to provide a comprehensive guide on how to fill out Form RUT-50 and the supporting documents required during the process.

What is Form RUT-50?

The Form RUT-50 is a legal document that the State of Illinois Department of Revenue requires for the registration of a vehicle within Illinois. It is used to transfer ownership of a vehicle or vessel from one person to another and is required by law whenever there is a private party transaction. This form must be completed, signed, and submitted to the Illinois Department of Revenue within 20 days of the sale or transfer of ownership.

The Department of Revenue uses Form RUT-50 to calculate the use tax that is due on the transfer of the vehicle. The use tax is a tax that is levied on the purchaser of the vehicle, and it is based on the purchase price of the vehicle. The RUT-50 Form must be completed by both the seller and the buyer of the vehicle.

How to fill out Form RUT-50

Filling out Form RUT-50 is a straightforward process that requires careful attention to details. Here are the steps to follow.

Step 1: Obtain Form RUT-50 from the Illinois Department of Revenue

The first step is to obtain the Form RUT-50 from the Illinois Department of Revenue. The form is available on the Illinois Department of Revenue website, and it can be completed online or printed for manual completion.

Step 2: Provide Details of the Seller

The seller is required to provide their full name, address, and contact information. They should ensure that the information provided is accurate and up-to-date.

Step 3: Provide Details of the Purchaser

The purchaser should provide their full name, address, and contact information. They should also provide their driver’s license number and the state of issuance.

Step 4: Provide Details of the Vehicle

The next step is to provide the vehicle’s information, including the make, model, year, and vehicle identification number (VIN). It is important to ensure that the information provided is accurate and up-to-date to avoid any complications during the process.

Step 5: Provide Details of the Sale or Transfer

The next step is to provide details of the sale or transfer, including the date of the transfer, the purchase price, and the odometer reading at the time of the transfer. It is essential to ensure that the purchase price and the odometer reading are accurate.

Step 6: Provide Declaration

The seller is required to sign and date the declaration on the form, confirming that the information provided is true and accurate. The purchaser also has to sign and date the form, acknowledging that they are liable for the payment of any applicable use tax. The purchaser must also indicate whether they are an Illinois resident, non-resident, or business entity.

Step 7: Submit the Form

Finally, the seller should submit the completed Form RUT-50 to the Illinois Department of Revenue. It is essential to keep a copy of the form for personal records.

Supporting Documents needed

The RUT-50 form requires certain supporting documents to be submitted along with the form. Here are the required documents.

1. Vehicle Certificate of Title

The certificate of title is a crucial document that serves as proof of ownership of the vehicle. The seller should provide the original Certificate of Title to the purchaser, who will need it to transfer the title into their name.

2. Odometer Disclosure Statement

The Odometer Disclosure Statement is required for the transfer of ownership and provides the odometer reading at the time of the sale or transfer. Illinois law requires the seller to provide an accurate odometer reading in the RUT-50. The purchaser should ensure that the odometer reading on the RUT-50 matches the odometer reading on the odometer disclosure statement.

3. Bill of Sale or Purchase Agreement

A bill of sale or purchase agreement is a document that serves as proof of purchase and outlines the terms and conditions of the sale between the seller and the purchaser.

4. Use Tax Payment or Exemption Form

The use tax payment or exemption form is a document that verifies whether the purchaser needs to pay use tax on the vehicle. This form should be submitted to the Illinois Department of Revenue with the Form RUT-50.

Form RUT-50 is an essential legal document required to transfer ownership of a vehicle in the State of Illinois. By carefully following the steps provided in this guide, sellers and purchasers can fill out the form correctly and submit it to the Illinois Department of Revenue without any complications. It is also essential to provide the required supporting documents to complete the transfer of ownership successfully. With this information at hand, individuals can be confident in their ability to sell or purchase a vehicle in the State of Illinois.

Conclusion

Vehicle registration in Illinois can seem like a complicated process, but it is a necessary part of owning a car in the state. By understanding the documentation requirements, fees and taxes, and renewal process, you can ensure that your vehicle remains properly registered and legal to drive.

First-Time Illinois Vehicle Registration

You will need to complete your Illinois vehicle registration for the very first time if you recently:

• Purchased a motor vehicle

• Received a motor vehicle as a gift

• Moved to the state of Illinois from another state

The Illinois vehicle registration process as well as titling process are very closely related to each other. If you become the owner of a motor vehicle, you are required to title and register it within twenty (20) days of the transaction. If you have just moved to the state of Illinois, the state will give you thirty (30) days to title the vehicle and complete your IL vehicle registration.

Purchase Insurance before Illinois Vehicle Registration

Although you do not need to show proof of liability insurance when you first register your motor vehicle (you can just include the needed information on the IL form), you cannot legally drive on Illinois roads without insurance. If you have not fulfilled this requirement, you need to find an insurance company that can provide your vehicle with a policy within Illinois before trying to complete an Illinois vehicle registration.

Prepare the Paperwork for Illinois Vehicle Registration

If you are purchasing your vehicle from a dealership, the dealer usually will handle the Illinois vehicle registration and titling application for you. If you do not get your vehicle from a dealership and you need to complete the Illinois vehicle registration process yourself, you will need the following documents:

• A filled out Form RUT-50 (private party purchase)

• A filled out Form VSD-190 Application for Vehicle Title and Registration

• A properly assigned title

• A filled out Tax Form RUT-50 (private party purchase) or Form RUT-25 (dealer purchase)

If you are registering a vehicle from out-of-state with an existing lease or lien, there are additional requirements necessary.

Fees for Illinois Vehicle Registration

Your very first-time IL vehicle registration, with standard license plates, will cost $99. There are additional feels if you wish to purchase Personalized or specialty license plates.

Completing your Illinois Vehicle Registration

In order to complete your Illinois vehicle registration, you will need to go to a Secretary of State Office and bring along all necessary documents as well as proper payment. Alternatively, you may mail these two items instead to the following address
Secretary of State

Vehicle Services Department

501 S. Second St., Room 014

Springfield, IL 62756

License Plates

When you process your Illinois vehicle registration in person and choose to get standard license plates, the Secretary of State Office will then issue you your new Illinois license plates on the spot as a part of your IL registration. IF you have chosen personalized or customized plates, you will receive those plates from the Secretary of State through the mail as a part of your IL registration.

What to Know About Vehicular Homicide

Vehicular homicide, which is also known as vehicular manslaughter, in considered a moving violation and a serious crime in most states. In general, vehicular homicide involves a person’s death that is the result of the a driver’s negligent operation of a motor vehicle, or more so the result from operating a vehicle while committing some unlawful act that may not necessarily amount to a felony. In the United States Model Penal Code, there is no special distinction between just a vehicular homicide and a vehicular homicide that also involves negligence. Both vehicular homicides fall within the overall category of a negligent homicide.

All states except Alaska, Arizona, and Montana have specific vehicular homicide statutes. The laws pertaining to vehicular homicide have the legal effect of calling a vehicle a potentially dangerous and deadly weapon, which allows for more severe penalties and easier convictions. In states that do not have statutes regarding vehicular homicide, defendants may still be charged with manslaughter or even murder depending on the situations. The victim of a vehicular homicide can either be a person who is not in the vehicle with the offending driver, for example a pedestrian, another motorist, or a cyclist, or the victim can be the passenger in the motor vehicle with the offending driver.

Motor Vehicles Involved in a Vehicular Homicide

A vehicular homicide occurs when a motor vehicle is used as the tool or instrument which causes a person’s death. Usually, the term “motor vehicle” includes all vehicles that are used and designed to mainly transport property and people on public roads and highways. The vehicle is also self-propelled and does not require manpower as a power source. Following this definition, motor vehicles that are involved in a vehicular homicide can include:

• Passenger vehicles

• Vans or mini-vans

• Sport utility vehicles

• Motorcycles

• Taxicabs

• Buses

• Trucks, such as pickup trucks or commercial trucks

Depending on the states, airplanes and motorboats may or may not be included within the definition of “motor vehicles” in regards to vehicular homicide. However, all-terrain vehicles, snowmobiles, watercraft, skateboards, and farm tractors are usually not considered “motor vehicles” when dealing with vehicular homicide.

Sentencing for Vehicular Homicide by State

Because the statutes and sentencing for vehicular homicide vary by state, here is a quick breakdown by state of the potential fines and time spent in prison for a vehicular homicide. Note that these can vary due to the circumstances, for example if alcohol or drugs were involved.

• Alabama: 1 to 10 years, penalties between $500 and $15,000.

• Alaska: 1 to 99 years, case law states that vehicular homicide can be criminally negligent homicide, manslaughter, or second-degree murder, depending on the risk created and level of awareness.

• Arizona: No statutes, by negligent homicide (1 to 8 years), manslaughter (7 to 21 years) or second degree murder (10 to 22 years) may apply.

• Arkansas: 5 to 20 years, classifies as a negligent homicide with fines not exceeding $15,000.

• California: 0 to 10 years and up to $10,000.

• Colorado: 2 to 6 years and $2,000 to $500,000.

• Connecticut: 1 to 10 years, up to $10,000.

• Delaware: 1 to 5 years, time spent depends on if the vehicular homicide is a first degree offense or a second degree offense.

• Florida: 0 to 15 years, up to $10,000.

• Georgia: 0 to 20 years, depending on severity of offense and whether or not the person is a habitual offender.

• Hawaii: 0 to 10 years and up to $25,000 depending on degree of negligent homicide.

• Idaho: 0 to 15 years, and up to 15,000 for vehicular manslaughter.

• Illinois: 1 to 28 years and up to $25,000, no probation offered unless extraordinary circumstances exist.

• Indiana: 2 to 20 years, up to $10,000, depends on offense and blood alcohol content.

• Iowa: 1 to 25 years.

• Kansas: 0 to 172 months and fees of up to $300,000 depending on severity and whether alcohol or drugs were involved.

• Kentucky: 0 to 10 years and up to 10,000 depending on severity of the vehicular homicide.

• Louisiana: 3 to 30 years and from $2,000 to $15,000.

• Maine: 6 months to10 year, between $2,100 and $20,000.

• Maryland: 0 to 5 years, no more than $5,000.

• Massachusetts: 30 days to 15 years, depends on if there is negligence or recklessness, between $300 and $3,000.

• Michigan: 0 to 20 years, between $2,500 and $10,000.

• Minnesota: 0 to 10 years and up to $20,000 for grossly negligent behavior or DUI.

• Mississippi: 5 to 25 years and up to $1,000.

• Missouri: 0 to 15 years, depends on class of felony.

• Montana: No official vehicular homicide statute but 0 – 30 years and no more than $50,000.

• Nebraska: 1 to 50 years, up to $25,000.

• Nevada: 2 to 25 years, fees between $2,000 and $5,000, depends on if it was a DUI and any prior offenses, imprisonment for life is possible.

• New Hampshire: 0 to 15 years, up to $4,000.

• New Jersey: 5 to 10 years, no more than $150,000.

• New Mexico: 0 to 6 years, no more than $5,000 for third degree felony.

• New York: 0 to 15 years, no more than $15,000 depending on degree of manslaughter.

• North Carolina: 15 months to 40 years, depends on whether it is a felony, aggravated felony, or repeat felony.

• North Dakota: Up to 10 years and up to $10,000 can be classified as murder, manslaughter, or negligent homicide.

• Ohio: 1 to 15 years, up to $15,000, can be classified as aggravated vehicular homicide or involuntary manslaughter

• Oklahoma: 0 to 1 year, between $100 and $1,000.

• Oregon: 0 to 20 years, up to $375,000.

• Pennsylvania: 0 to 10 years, up to $25,000.

• Rhode Island: 5 to 25 years, up to $20,000 depending on offense.

• South Carolina: 1 to 25 years, between $10,100 and $25,100.

• South Dakota: 0 to 15 years, up to $30,000.

• Tennessee: 80 to 60 years, up to $50,000 depending on whether it is a vehicular homicide or aggravated vehicular homicide.

• Texas: 2 to 20 years, up to $10,000.

• Utah: 0 to 15 years and up to $10,000 depending on degree of felony

• Vermont: 1 to 15 years and up to $10,000.

• Virginia: 1 to 20 years, up to $2,500.

• Washington: 31 months to 177 months, or life imprisonment depending on circumstances, no more than $50,000.

• West Virginia: 90 days to 10 years, up to $3,000.

• Wisconsin: 0 to 40 years, up to $100,000.

• Wyoming: 0 to 20 years for the felony.

A Guide to Auto Recalls

The United States National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act gives the Department of Transportation National Highway Traffic Safety Administration the authority to create vehicle safety standards and to require vehicle manufacturers to recall motor vehicles that do not meet Federal safety standards or have any safety-related defects. Since 1966, over 390 million cars, buses, trucks, recreational vehicles, mopeds, and motorcycles, as well as nearly 66 million pieces of vehicle equipment, 46 million tires, and 42 million child safety seats have also been recalled in order to correct safety defects.

While some manufacturers may voluntarily initiate of these auto recalls, others are often influenced by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration investigations or ordered by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to perform auto recalls through the courts. If a safety defect is found in a vehicle, the manufacturer has to notify the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, as well as any vehicle owners, dealers, and distributors. The vehicle manufacturer is then required to fix the problem at no charge to the vehicle owner. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration is responsible for observing the auto manufacturer’s corrective action in order to ensure successful completion of the auto recall campaign.

The Purpose of Auto Recalls

Auto recalls are necessary when:

• A motor vehicle or a part of motor vehicle equipment does not comply with the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard.

• There is some safety-related defect in the motor vehicle or its equipment.

Federal standards on motor vehicle safety create minimum performance requirements for those parts of motor the vehicle that most directly affect its safe operation (such as brakes, lighting, and tires) or that protect the vehicle’s drivers and passengers from serious injury or death in the event of a vehicle crash (such as safety belts, energy absorbing steering columns, air bags, child restraints, motorcycle helmets). These federal standards are also applicable to all motor vehicles and vehicle-related equipment that are manufactured or imported for retail in the United States and its territories and are certified for use on public highways and road.

Auto Recalls and Safety Defects

The U.S. Code for Motor Vehicle Safety (Title 49, Chapter 301) specifically defines motor vehicle safety as the motor vehicle’s performance or the performance of motor vehicle equipment in a way in which it protects the public against any unreasonable risk of vehicle accidents due to the design, construction, or the performance of a motor vehicle, and against any unreasonable risk of injury or death in an accident, and also includes nonoperational safety of the motor vehicle. Defects that can result in motor recalls include those in construction, performance, a component, or the material of a motor vehicle or its equipment. Usually, a safety defect is considered a problem that only exists in a motor vehicle or the motor vehicle equipment if:

• The motor vehicle or the equipment poses some risk to the motor vehicle safety, and

• It can exist in a group of motor vehicles of the same manufacture or design, or items of equipment of the same manufacture or type.

Examples of Safety-Related Defects that Can Result in Auto Recalls

Auto recalls can be the result of many different safety-related defects in automobiles or their parts. Some examples include the following:

• Steering components of the vehicle break suddenly resulting in partial or complete loss of control over the motor vehicle.

• Accelerator controls that stick or break.

• Issues with the fuel system components, mainly in their susceptibility to any crash damage, which results in leakage of fuel and can potential result in motor vehicle fires.

• Wheels that break or crack, which results in a loss of control over the vehicle.

• Windshield wiper assemblies that do not properly operate.

• Engine cooling fan blades that unexpectedly break resulting in injury to people working on a motor vehicle.

• Seats and/or seat backs which fail unexpectedly during regular use.

• Radios and air conditioners that do not operate properly.

• Ordinary use or wear of vehicle equipment that has to be maintained, inspected, or replaced periodically such as batteries, shock absorbers, exhaust systems and brake pads and shoes.

• Excessive oil consumption.

• Body panel or nonstructural rust.

• Quality of paint defects or cosmetic blemishes.

The Start of Auto Recalls

Most decisions to conduct auto recalls and remedies of a safety defect are made by manufacturers voluntarily before any involvement by the US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Through their own inspection procedures, tests, and information gathering systems, auto manufacturers often discover that some safety defect exists in the vehicle or its equipment or that the safety standard requirement has not been correctly met. If a safety defect is discovered and auto recalls are necessary, the vehicle manufacturer must file a public report that describes the safety-related defect or the noncompliance with the federal motor vehicle safety standard, the events that resulted in the determination of the auto recall, the involved motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment population, a description of the auto recall’s remedy, and a schedule for auto recalls.

After auto recalls, manufacturers are required to attempt to notify owners of the recalled products. For auto recalls of motor vehicles, that means manufacturers must combine their own records of motor vehicle purchasers with the current state motor vehicle registration information. For motor vehicle equipment, where there are no state registration records, manufacturers must notify the distribution chain and all known purchasers of the recalled motor vehicle equipment. If an owner of a vehicle subject to any auto recalls does not receive a notification, the manufacturer is then obligated to provide a free remedy for the vehicle or equipment.

Booster Seat Requirements for Your Child’s Safety

What is a Booster Seat?

Unlike many child restraints with built-in harnesses, a booster seat uses on a vehicle’s belt to buckle a child in. The purpose is to make the adult seat belt fit the child better. Booster seats used are for children who have outgrown forward-facing restraints. The best booster seats will provide a good fit for the adult seat belt for typical children between 4 and 8 years old or above 40 pounds in nearly any car, SUV, or minivan.

A booster seat is a firm cushion made of plastic or foam that elevates a child higher in a car in order to improve the angle and position of the shoulder seat belt. Booster seat requirements call for slots or hooks where the lap belt is put through to lower the lap belt down to the child’s hips and thighs. There are high back, backless, and removable-back booster seats. Many booster seats also include a comfort clip or a shoulder belt guide that can be used, if needed, to slightly lower the shoulder belt so it can cross the center of the child’s shoulder and chest.

Booster Seat Requirements for Your Child

While there are no strict booster seat requirements for the design of a booster seat, ideal booster seats have a removable back with adjustable headrests. Most high back booster seats have energy-absorbing, high-density foam in the head region. In order protect a child’s neck and spine, the head must be properly supported by the vehicle seatback, headrest, or booster seat. An adjustable headrest also helps keep a sleeping child properly positioned under the vehicle belt and also comfortably positions the shoulder without preventing it from properly retracting.

Booster Seat Requirements by State

Each state has its own specific booster seat requirements. Some states do not explicitly state that a booster seat is needed, but rather some sort of child restraint system is required. If your state is not listed, there are no booster seat requirements for children between 4 and 8 years old.

• Alabama Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between the ages of 5 and 6 years old.

• Alaska Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for ages between 4 and 7 (between 20 and 64 pounds or less than 57”).

• Arizona Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 5 years old.

• Arkansas Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 5 years old (and less than 60 pounds).

• California Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 8 years old (and less than 57″) in rear seat if possible.

• Colorado Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children ages between 4 and 7.

• Connecticut Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint system for children between ages 1 and 6 (and less than 60 pounds).

• Delaware Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (less than 66 pounds).

• Georgia Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 8 years old (and less than 57″) in rear seat if possible.

• Hawaii Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for child restraint for between 4 and 7.

• Idaho Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraints required for children less than 7 years old.

• Illinois Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old.

• Indiana Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old.

• Iowa Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children 4-5 years old.

• Kansas Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat or child restraint required for children between ages 4 and 7 years old (and less than 80 pounds or than 57″).

• Kentucky Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children less than 6 years old (between 40″ and 50″).

• Louisiana Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between ages 4 and 5 years old (between 40 and 60 pounds).

• Maine Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children 40 to 80 pounds and less than 8 years old

• Maryland Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 8 (and less than 57″ and less than 65 pounds).

• Massachusetts Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (and less than 57″).

• Michigan Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (and less than 57″).

• Minnesota Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (and less than 57″).

• Mississippi Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between 4 and 6 years old (and less than 57″ or 65 pounds).

• Missouri Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat between 4 and 7 years old (and between 40 and 80 pounds and less than 57″) or for children 4 years or older (and greater than 80 pounds or more than 57″) in rear seat.

• Montana Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 6 years old (and less than 60 pounds).

• Nebraska Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 5 years old.

• Nevada Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 6 years old (less than 60 pounds).

• New Hampshire Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 5 years old (less than 55″).

• New Jersey Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 8 years old (less than 80 pounds).

• New Mexico Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children 5 and 6 years old (or less than 60 pounds).

• New York Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children between 4 and 7 years old unless no lap/shoulder belt is available.

• North Carolina Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for than 7 years old (and less than 80 pounds).

• North Dakota Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for less than 6 years old (and less than 80 pounds or 57”), or if greater than 40 pounds, child can use lap belt if lap/shoulder seat belts is not available.

• Ohio Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between 4 and 7 years old (greater than 40 pounds and less than 57″).

• Oklahoma Booster Seat Requirements: Lap belt for children greater than 40 pounds in rear seat if belt if lap/shoulder belt is unavailable.

• Oregon Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children less than 8 years old but over 40 pounds or less than 57″ tall.

• Pennsylvania Booster Seat Requirements (Pennsylvania Vehicle Registration): Child restraint for children less than 7 years old.

• Rhode Island Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (less than 80 pounds and less than 57″) in rear seat if possible.

• South Carolina Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between 1 and 5 years old (between 40 and 80 pounds) secured by lap/shoulder belt.

• Tennessee Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between 4 and 8 years old (and less than 57”), rear seat if available for children less than 8 years old (and less than 57”)

• Texas Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (and less than 57″).

• Utah Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (and less than 57″).

• Vermont Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children between 2 and 7 years old (and greater than 20 pounds).

• Virginia Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old.

• Washington Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 8 years old (and less than 57”).

• West Virginia Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 7 years old (and less than 57”).

• Wisconsin Booster Seat Requirements: Booster seat for children between 4 and 7 years old (and 40 and 80 pounds and less than 57″).

• Wyoming Booster Seat Requirements: Child restraint for children less than 8 years old in rear seat if available.

A Guide to Moving Violations

What are Moving Violations?

A moving violation is a violation of traffic law which is committed by a driver of a motor vehicle while the vehicle is in motion. The word “motion” distinguishes moving violations from other traffic violations such as equipment violations, parking violations, or paperwork violations that are related to registration insurance, inspection, or others.

Moving violations are usually more heavily penalized because in theory, they are more likely to cause direct physical hard to the other individuals or cause property damage. While some traffic violations, like parking violations, are considered civil matters that only involve a vehicle’s owner, moving violations are actually charged against the vehicle driver. Moving violations are typically classified as misdemeanors or infractions, but any serious moving violations such driving under the influence, a hit and run, or road rage can be classified as felonies depending on the situation.

The most typically enforced moving violation, and certainly the most frequent reason for a motor vehicle pullover (regardless of specific citation issued, if any), is a moving violation that involve the speed limit. The measurements of drivers speed throughout time have found certain roadways where driver compliance with the speed laws is very low, which makes many motor vehicles liable to be pulled over by law enforcement.

Severe Moving Violations

As mentioned, some serious moving violations will result in criminal charges such as misdemeanors or felonies. Here are some severe moving violations that you should be aware of:

Severe Moving Violations: Driving Under the Influence

Driving under the influence (known as a DUI or DWI for driving while intoxicated) is the act of operating a motor vehicle while having blood levels of alcohol that exceed a legal limit. For these moving violations, convictions do not necessarily require actual driving of the motor vehicle. In most jurisdictions, a measurement like the person’s blood alcohol content beyond a defined level, like 0.08% defines the offense, without having to prove driving impairment.

For DUI moving violations, many states adopted truth in sentencing laws which enforce strict guidelines on sentencing for this moving violation. Many jurisdictions in the United States require more serious penalties for this moving violation, such as large fines, jail time, DUI programs, or the installation of ignition interlock devices. These penalties can increase even more when driver’s BAC is much higher than the limit, such as 0.15-0.20%.These additional penalties are an attempt to prevent and punish the operation of a motor vehicle at extremely high blood alcohol content levels and the resulting danger posed to the safety of individuals and personal property by heavily impaired drunk drivers.

Severe Moving Violations: Reckless Driving

Reckless driving is another severe moving traffic violation. It is considered a more serious moving violation than careless driving, improper driving, and driving without due care and attention. Reckless driving often results in fines, jail time, and/or suspension or revocation of a driver’s license as well as a misdemeanor criminal record.

When a person commits reckless driving moving violations, the driver is often in a mental state in which he or she displays an extreme disregard for the regulations of the road. The driver often misjudges normal driving procedures, which results in accidents and damages such as personal injury or property damage. Like other moving violations, reckless driving stays on your DMV record also results in points added to your insurance. Reckless driving usually goes hand in hand with other moving violations such as speeding or alcohol use.

Severe Moving Violations: Vehicular Homicide

Vehicular homicide, sometimes called vehicular manslaughter, is one of the more severe moving violations that result in a criminal record. In general, vehicle homicide results in death from the negligent operation of a motor vehicle or from driving while performing an unlawful act that does not necessarily amount to a felony. In the Model Penal Code, there are no distinctions between vehicular homicide alone and vehicular homicides that include negligence. Both moving violations are included in the category of negligent homicide.

All states with the exception of Alaska, Arizona, and Montana have statutes regarding this moving violation. The relevant laws have the effect of calling the motor vehicle a potentially deadly weapon, which allows for easier criminal conviction and severe penalties. In states that do not have statutes regarding vehicular homicide, defendants may still be charged with murder or manslaughter in some situations. The victim of these moving violations may be either an individual not in the vehicle with the offending motorist, like a pedestrian, another motorist, cyclist, or the passenger who is in the motor vehicle with the offender.

Severe Moving Violations: Street Racing

Street racing is an illegal unsanctioned form of motor racing that takes place on public roads and is considered a moving violation. Street racing can either be well-planned and coordinated or spontaneous. The street racing culture is particularly in Northern California and Southern Florida.

In certain cases, the popularity of street racing has resulted in tough anti-street racing regulations which give more strict penalties, including misdemeanor offenses for attending race events, than normal moving violations and also result in dedicated anti-racing task forces. Penalties for these moving violations now can even include impoundment or even destruction of the offending motor vehicle as well as the revocation or suspension of the offender’s license.

Other Moving Violations

While the punishments for other moving violations are not as severe, you should still be aware of what is considered a moving violation and avoid them:

• Running a red traffic light or a stop sign

• Speeding, which can either be exceeding a speed limit or just driving at an unsafe speed

• Failure to yield to another motor vehicle who has right-of-way

• Failure to use signals for lane changes or turns

• Failure to drive within one single lane

• Crossing over a median, gore, or center divider

• Driving your vehicle on the shoulder of the road when it is considered illegal under specific conditions

• Failure to properly use a seat belt

• Failure to stop at a cross walk for a pedestrian

• Failure to stop for a school bus while children are exiting or boarding the bus

• Failure to secure a load to a lorry or a truck

• Illegally driving in a car pool lane

• Depending on the jurisdiction, operating a mobile device while driving

• Driving a motor vehicle outside the conditions of one’s driver’s license

What to Know About Pedestrians

In the United States, pedestrians often cross roads and in doing so, they may come into the way of motor vehicles traveling on the road. While In many places pedestrians are left to cross safely by themselves after observing the road and crossing only when they know traffic will threaten them, many busier cities often provide pedestrian crossings, where pedestrians are expected to cross.

The appearance of pedestrian crossings can greatly vary, but the two most common crosswalk designations for pedestrians are either a series of parallel white stripes on the ground or two long white lines horizontal to each other. The former of the two is typically preferred, since it stands out more much more conspicuously against the road’s dark pavement.

Other pedestrian crossings also have a traffic signal which makes vehicles stop at regular intervals in order to allow pedestrians to cross the street. Others have “intelligent” signals, where pedestrians can push a button, which results in the traffic signal will schedule a stop in order to allow pedestrians to cross. Pedestrian crossings that do not have traffic signals are also very common. In this situation, the laws usually say that pedestrians have the right of way if crossing, and motor vehicles must stop to allow the pedestrian to cross.

Pedestrians, Drivers, and the Right of Way

Certain jurisdictions forbid pedestrians from crossing the road at any point other than at crosswalks, which is called jaywalking. In other areas, pedestrians can have the right to cross where they choose to, and they also have the right of way over any vehicular traffic while crossing. Most crosswalks exist at all intersections which meet at nearly right angles, whether they have walk markings or not. Some states, like California, have pedestrian safety laws that require cars to stop for any pedestrians in both unmarked and marked crosswalks.

In most states, drivers have to wait only until the pedestrian has crossed the half of the crosswalk which the driver is driving on, after which he or she may proceed. However, some states, such as Utah, require the driver to wait the full time, for example in a school zone when the lights flashing are on, before he or she can proceed.

Types of Pedestrian Laws

Not only are there laws that look at the interaction between drivers and pedestrians, but there are also those that regulate pedestrian conduct. While each state has specific laws regarding both of these, all states have laws that consider the following issues:

• The way pedestrians must obey traffic control devices and traffic signals unless directed by a police or traffic officer.

• Drivers and bicyclists yielding or stopping to pedestrians at crosswalks.

• Where pedestrians must walk on roadways if sidewalks are not available.

• Drivers exercising care to avoid hitting a pedestrian.

• Pedestrians abruptly leaving a curve and moving into traffic.

• Pedestrians yielding to motor vehicles outside of intersections.

A Full Guide on How to Buy Used Cars

Many consumers wish to know how to buy used cars at the best possible price. Many also feel that car payments are unavoidable, so they might as well buy a newer car instead of choosing to buy used cars. There have been significant improvements in the quality of cars over the years, which means that well-maintained cars should stay reliable for at least 100,000 miles and ten years. The United States Department of Transportation states that the average life span of a motor vehicle is 128,500 miles or 12 years. However, surveys have shown that a person sells or trades in a car when it is only on average 4 1/2 years old with only 41,000 miles.

That means that there are a lot of potential vehicles to choose from when you buy used cars that have plenty of life left in them. When looking for a relatively new model, it can be a great deal to buy used cars that are the same style. About 20% of a new car’s monetary value is lost in the very first year of ownership, which means that if you buy used cars , you pay significantly less for a small about wear. Car accessories such as power assists, stereo systems, and other convenience options are also far less a factor when looking at resale pricing. In addition, by the time a motor vehicle is a couple of years old, small problems in the particular model should have been found and corrected.

Buy Used Cars: Choosing a Model

With the average cost of a new car going up every year, it is understandable that the quickest growing section of the automobile industry is the used car market. Over the last decade, used automobiles have become even better values. When you buy used cars, you can save thousands of dollars in comparison to buying new cars, especially when the price of new cars keeps going up. The first step to take when you buy used cars is to decide on the make, year, model and the options you want on the vehicle. Consider what you will be using the car for, for example if you are a student who needs an economical model, or if you need a family vehicle. You should also decide what accessories you would like to have or you need. After you decide to buy used cars and you choose a specific model vehicle, you should also think of other back up models as well.

If you are having difficulty choosing models before you buy used cars, you can take a look at Consumers Reports which publishes excellent information regarding both new and used cars. These reports include repair and maintenance information. You can narrow your choices of different vehicles as much as possible with this. You should make sure to note the following features of each vehicle when planning to buy used cars:

• Safety features

• Visibility

• Comfort

If you wish to check the “recall record” of a motor vehicle before you buy used cars, you can call the United States Department of Transportation Auto Safety Hotline toll-free at (800) 424-9393. The department will tell you if a particular model has ever been previously recalled and will send you any information regarding that particular recall. Additionally, you can you can obtain technical service or recall bulletins on different models online from different services.

Buy Used Cars: Price Guides

Many different price guides are used by dealers, lenders, and individuals to figure out the monetary value who sell or buy used cars. You can check the check the Official Used Car Guide from the National Automotive Dealers Association to find the book value on your trade-in vehicle. This book may also be found in local banks and credit unions or public libraries. The publication is released every month the National Automotive Dealers Association and with provides average loan, wholesale, trade-in, and retail prices for almost every car sold in the last seven years.

These publications are not intended to provide a definitive price for a vehicle, but rather to serve as a reference point when negotiating with the seller of the vehicle. The information found in the book can be also obtained at the reference section of your public library or through services which provide invoice prices for a small fee. You can look at classified ads in your local newspaper to figure out what advertisers in your local area are asking for the specific models when you buy used cars. The difference between retail and wholesale value will be your ideal bargaining range.

Buy Used Cars: Financing and Insurance

You can check with local credit unions and banks for financing options in order to make better comparisons with dealer financing when you plan to buy used cars. Be sure to figure out the amount that the credit union or bank will finance for a specific model vehicle. Also consider getting preapproved credit, which would get rid of dealer pressure on when you buy used cars. You should check your current insurance company for a price quote on particular vehicles when you buy used cars. You should consider whether you can afford the car payments and insurance payments and whether there is room in your budget for any unexpected vehicle repairs.

Buy Used Cars: Where to Buy

You can check with your local Consumer Affairs Office, Better Business Bureau, and other related government agencies for more information on automobile dealerships in your area. You should make sure that any dealers you plan to buy used cars from are licensed with the respective Division of Motor Vehicles of your state. You can also ask if the dealer belongs to any professional associations, such as local dealer associations or the Chamber of Commerce and how long the particular dealership has been in business.

When you buy used cars, you are making a major purchase, which requires proper comparison shopping for both price and value in order to find the best deal possible. There are many different sources to buy used cars from:

• New car dealerships

• Used car dealerships

• Leasing companies

• Rental car companies

• Private individuals

Buy Used Cars: Dealers

New car dealers usually only keep the best cars and will give them a very thorough inspection. Additionally, when you buy used cars you should consider purchasing from a dealer who can handle the particular brand you are interested in purchasing. You should look for full service departments who are well-stocked with parts for that model. These dealerships may also be able to offer a parts and labor warranty. You should visit several different automobile dealerships.

Buy Used Cars: Rental Companies

Rental returns, which are also called program cars, can also be an excellent value when you buy used cars. These cars are usually less than two years old, and are well maintained and equipped, with good warranties. When you buy used cars, you may want to look at luxury dealers for mid-priced sedans or domestic dealers for used imports.

Buy Used Cars: Private Parties

You can also buy used cars from private individuals. However, it may not necessarily be a better deal to buy used cars from a private party. Buyers might end up overpaying for a vehicle because somehow they assume it will be a better deal from the private party. One major benefit of purchasing from a private seller is that the buyer can meet the seller in person and ask about any mechanical problems the car may have, find out who was the main driver of the car, why it is being sold, and ask for maintenance records of the vehicle.

When buying a car from a private party, you must be cautious since there are no warranties. When you buy used cars from private parties, it is strictly “buyer beware”. Additionally, the buyers must provide their own financing pay cash for the vehicle.

Buy Used Cars: Inspecting the Car’s Exterior

Check the vehicle during the day as darkness can hide exterior problems. Make sure not to check out cars in the rain, which may hide scratches and nicks, as well as making worn, thin paint appear slick. You should concentrate on big defects rather than minor repairs which can be made inexpensively and easily.

You should also prepare a checklist for the interior as well as the exterior of the car and things when driving. Take a basic look around the exterior of the car. One practice that is very common is to have the car carefully detailed to increase the appeal. Usually this process includes a full cleaning inside and out, waxing the vehicle, and repairing minor cosmetic items that may hide the vehicle’s wear.

Look at both sides of the vehicle from a distance, in the front and the back. Check for waves, ripples, mismatched colors, and poorly fitted panels, all of which can indicate that work has been done on the body of the vehicle. Check for rust or dents near the bottom of the fenders and doors. Any bubbles along the chrome or molding indicate that there is rust underneath. Check under the vehicle for any rust as well. If it has gone through the metal, it can require major repairs.

Look for welding spots on the car’s frame which can indicate serious damages or repairs before you buy used cars. Open and close all of the doors, the hood, hatchback and the truck. Be sure all of them properly fit and are very easy to close without having to slam and without any sagging or sticking.

Stand back around 10 to 15 feet from the vehicle and check if the car is level. When one corner appears lower than the others, it may mean a broken spring or other suspension or chassis issues.

Before you buy used cars, check that the tires of the car are in good shape and do not have sidewall cracks. If there is uneven tire wear, it may mean that there are worn front end components, tired shocks, or improper wheel alignment. Additionally, you should check the inside of the tires in case there is brake fluid leakage, which indicates leaking wheel cylinders.

You can check the shocks by pressing down on each corner of the vehicle and then letting go. The car should only bounce upward once and then settle to the original position. If the vehicle bounces many times, the car may need new shocks.

When you buy used cars, you should check under the car for any oil spots, or leaks from the power steering, shock absorbers, or transmission. Open the hood and take a look at the belts and hoses for wear or cracks. Take off the radiator cap and check that the coolant is a clean, greenish (or yellow or blue, depending on coolant brand) color. If there is brown sludge in the radiator neck, it can indicate poor maintenance.

Take out the oil dipstick and check if the oil is grayish or gummy, which can indicate serious problems with the engine. If there is any black buildup near the very top of the dipstick, you should smell it. If it smells like it is burnt, this means the transmission or engine has been run hot. The automatic transmission fluid must not be black or brown, but rather reddish and clear in color. Low fluid level or the burnt smell indicates neglect. Be sure to also check the level of fluid in the master cylinder. If there is a low level, look for leaks and get the brake pads checked. Check the trunk for an inflated spare tire, a lug wrench, and a jack.

Buy Used Cars: Inspecting the Car’s Interior

The inside of a car can give you an idea of the overall condition of the vehicle and how well it has been maintained. You can check these before you buy used cars.

Look at the mileage of the car to check that it has been used a reasonable amount considering the asking price when you buy used cars. You should also compare the service stickers found under the hood or on the door jamb to check if the recorded mileage seems consistent with the vehicle’s odometer reading.

Before you buy used cars, check the seats, carpeting, and belts’ condition. Shoulder harnesses and lap belts should be in good shape without any rips, frayed webbing, or tears. The upholstery of the car should be clean without any large cracks or rips.

Check all the windows to see if they easily open and close. Manual windows should smoothly crank while power windows should not at any point hesitate. All glass should not have any serious scratches or cracks.

Check at the clutch, brake, and accelerator. These pedals must work smoothly without making any strange noises and without binding. Check exterior lights and flashers to ensure they work properly. Start the car’s engine and check the gauges and warning lights as well as all accessories to ensure they work properly. Ensure that the air conditioning can blow very cold air.

Check for the owner’s manual in the glove box. The manual has maintenance information and important information regarding fluid capacities, replacement parts, and engine tuning.

While a used car does not depreciate in value as quickly as a new car, it is still possible to get a “lemon” car. Be careful of extra and hidden costs, like rustproofing or extended warranties which you may not want to have.

Buy Used Cars: Add-Ons

There can be additional charges when you buy used cars, such as charges for processing paperwork, which are called conveyance fees. You should also be weary of credit insurance policies. These policies will pay off your loan if you die or become disabled. You cannot be forced to purchase insurance as a loan prerequisite.

Extended warranties are also generally offered to cover major parts such as the engine, transmission, or the transaxle, by manufacturers at an extra cost. These warranties can include a deductible which is paid by the owner. There are also “wrap-around” warranties and service contracts that are offered by warranty companies and manufacturers.

Buy Used Cars: Drive Test

When you buy used cars, you should check how the car drives. Start the engine and press the brake. The pedal should go down about an inch or two and must feel firm and solid, rather than spongy. Press on the brakes for an extended period to see if the pedal slowly sinks, which may indicate a master cylinder leak. As the car engine warms up, you should listen for noises such as ticking, rattles and knocks, which can indicate engine issues. Put the car in neutral and then rev the engine. Check in the rear view mirror for any smoke coming from the exhaust. White or bluish smoke can indicate that engine needs overhaul.

When idle, the car engine should be quiet and smooth. Punch the gas pedal to check if the car engine responds without any hesitation and then goes back to normal idle. When first starting, slowly drive to get a feel for the car. The automatic transmission should not jerk, slip or hesitate. A manual transmission should not grind, but rather shift smoothly between gears. The clutch should disengage and engage smoothly without chattering or grabbing. Drive on a smooth, flat road and slightly lift your hands from the wheel. The vehicle should be stable without vibration and track straight. If the vehicle pulls in either direction, front end repairs such as an alignment might be necessary.

To test the car’s brakes, accelerate to around 30 to 40 miles per hour in an area with no cars behind you, and step on the brake pedal hard, without locking the wheels. The brakes must grab evenly and the car should decelerate in a straight line. If the vehicle pulls to the right or left, it means the car needs a system re-build or a brake adjustment. A grinding noise means that there are badly worn pads or linings.

Next, accelerate to 45mph. If the front end of the car vibrates or shapes, the tires may need balancing. Quickly drive over a rough street and listen for loud rattles or squeaks. If the car bangs or bounces over small bumps, it indicates worn shock absorbers. After driving the car for a while, check for high reading on the temperature gauge or if the temperature warning light comes on. These can indicate cooling system troubles, which can be very expensive.

To test the response of the engine, accelerate hard on an empty street. The car should immediately respond. Stop and then hit the gas once more. There should not be any smoke or hesitation from the car and should smoothly accelerate without any strange noises. Check how well the car drives over steep hills. If you notice significant power loss while climbing, the car may require a tune-up or an overhaul. While on the hill, test the hand brake to ensure it holds the car. After finishing the test drive, it’s a good turn off the car for a few minutes and then restart the engine to check how well it turns on when hot. Check again for any leaks beneath the car and under the hood. Sometimes leaks will only show up after driving. Check the tailpipe for any sooty black oily deposits. If there is a powdery, white residue, it can indicate good fuel combustion.

Buy Used Cars: Checking for Odometer Fraud

A vehicle’s odometer reading is an accepted way of determining the monetary value of a car. If the vehicle is in unusually good condition, items may have been replaced because of excessive wear. Check for scratches on the dashboard or odometer, digits that are misaligned or stuck, or loosely fitting odometers when you buy used cars. Any of these can suggest odometer tampering.

If you think that the car’s odometer has been rolled back, contact your local Department of Motor Vehicles or local law enforcement agency. If you think odometer fraud has happened with a vehicle you have already bought, the Department of Motor vehicles can help you in finding a record of previous odometer statements from all dealers involved in the car’s history. If you find out that odometer fraud has occurred, you will have to hire an attorney to file suit against the fraud violator. Because of the importance of the car’s odometer reading in calculating the condition and value of a car, both state and federal laws make it illegal to tamper with the odometer. It is illegal to:

• Drive with the odometer disconnected or with a non-functional odometer

• Turn back the odometer

• Disconnect the odometer

It is against the law for anyone to sell a motor vehicle without giving a written statement of the actual vehicle mileage at the time of vehicle transfer. Exemptions from this include:

• Vehicles that are over 10 years old

• Vehicles that have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating exceeding 16,000 pounds

• Vehicles that are not self-propelled

Buy Used Cars: Other Items to Check

Ask if the car has ever been in any crashes or accidents. Learn as much about the maintenance record and prior history of the car. If you are buying the car from a dealer, contact the car’s previous owner to verify the condition and mileage of the car. If the dealer refuses to provide information, take note of the vehicle identification number, which can be used to find out who the previous owners were.

The National Automobile Dealer’s Association can run title searches on a vehicle for a small fee, which is important when you buy used cars. The search will provide information regarding previous registrations and if the vehicle has been recalled, flood damaged, salvaged, or if the odometer has been rolled back.

Buy Used Cars: Mechanical Check

After you have thoroughly inspected the car, you should take the car to a trusted mechanic before you making a final decision when you buy used cars. When you buy used cars, the best place to inspect a car is at the dealership that services and sells that specific make of car. These mechanics will be knowledgeable with the car and will know what problems to check for.

If the vehicle does have any problems, ask the approximate cost for fixing these defects. Minor problems that can easily be fixed may be used to negotiate a lower selling price but a vehicle with any major problems must be avoided.

Buy Used Cars: As-Is or Warranty

By federal law, all car dealers are to adhere a “buyer’s guide” in the window of each car offered for sale. This guide notifies any potential buyer that there is a warranty on the vehicle or that the car is being sold “as-is,” which means there is no warranty on the vehicle of any kind.

When you buy used cars, you should be aware of whether you are buying an “as-is” car. After you drive the car from the dealership, it now belongs to you, despite any mechanical issues the car may have. If the car breaks down only after a few minutes of driving off the dealership lot, the repairs are now your responsibility.

The biggest and important difference between vehicles might not be in the extra equipment provided or under the hood, but instead is somewhere in the product packaging, or the Warranty Card. Although you may think nothing can or will happen to your newly bought vehicle, problems can and often do surface. The better the car’s warranty, the less you will have to pay for any unexpected repair bills.

When you compare warranty policies, longer policies are better. However, be aware of policies that have unrealistic requirements or are too long. You should be sure to ask the following questions regarding the vehicle’s warranty:

• Are all of the car’s parts covered under the warranty?

• Is there a co-payment for the warranty?

• Under the warranty, am I only allowed to have repairs done only at certain garages?

• Does the normal service need to be accounted for in the warranty?

• Can vehicle service be done at a repair shop of my choosing or only at certified repair shops which are designated in the policy? This can be particularly important if you live far away from repairs and service locations.

• If the warranty is misused, is coverage completely voided?

After you buy used cars, you should keep your warranty records safe with any other receipts. Make a copy of the warranty and keep it in a different location. While some companies are more relaxed, other will require you to provide the original warranty if you have to get repairs done. Be sure to be very specific in adhering to the warranty requirements of the manufacturer.

The federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 requires that car warranties be available to read before you buy used cars. Unfortunately, many companies do not follow this requirement. While no reputable dealer will completely disobey this law, they may make their administrative procedures for getting this information incomplete. Under the federal law, you may sue these companies based on breach of the express warranties, implied warranties or a breach of the service contract.

Essentially, when you buy used cars you should carefully read the warranties and the fine print. Be sure to get copies of all documents you sign. Make sure that any other documents you sign are the same as what you agreed to. There have been situations where a “buyer’s guide” states that there is a warranty, but the actual contract states an “as-is” transaction. In this situation, government agencies will call this transaction an “as-is” sale. All warranties and agreement are only valid if they are in writing and are signed by all involved parties.

Buy Used Cars: Caution with Paperwork

You should not sign any blank forms under any circumstances. You should get copies of all signed paperwork that are involved in the sale of the vehicle at the time of preparation. Make sure not to lose control of the vehicle’s title during a trade.

In many situations, once the deposit is made, the customer can lose the deposit if he or she changes his/her mind and chooses not to buy the used car. When buying used cars, make sure that your contract and/or your receipt specifies a refundable initial deposit. Also make sure that you fully understand all the terms discussed in the contract.

Many contracts when you buy used cars are written pending the credit application. Deposits are often made with credit application fees. The trade-in value of a vehicle is provided and the car purchased is then brought home. The credit application is may then be processed and denied. In this case, the application can then be processed once more with another agency through the car dealership, but it will be done at a higher interest rate. Because of this, make that you get everything you agreed on regarding terms and interest rate if you are denied credit when you buy used cars. Check to see if the dealership has a license to finance vehicles by verifying with the Division of Banking & Finance if you have any concerns or questions.

After you buy used cars, have the vehicle seller write a receipt that is marked “Paid in Full.” This receipt must include the vehicle identification number, model, make, the buyer’s name, the seller’s name, and the amount paid for the vehicle.

Buy Used Cars: Tax, Tag and Title

Dealers are only allowed to charge the actual amount of fees when charging for tags, title transfer, and taxes. Normally, these fees are not included in the purchase contract when you buy used cars. However, sometimes dealers will charge a handling or processing fee. If they do so, this fee must be disclosed separately. You should make sure you properly understand all the terms of your contract.

A licensed dealer is required by law to transfer the title and tags within 30 days. If a car dealer issues a second temporary tag for the vehicle, the buyer should start asking questions regarding the delay in transfer. If the car dealer issues another temporary tag after the second, the seller should contact their local Division of Motor Vehicles immediately, since they may be illegal depending on the state and jurisdiction.

You should make sure you have proof of insurance for the car. Most states require vehicles that are licensed within the state to have some sort of liability insurance that is accepted within the state. Without providing proof of insurance when you buy used cars, the dealer will not be able to complete the transfer of the car’s title and registration into the buyer’s name.

Buy Used Cars: Declining Value

Nearly every car loses value as time goes on. Large luxury cars as well as subcompacts tend to lose value at the quickest rates. Domestic cars usually depreciate faster than their comparable imports.

Used cars that have the highest resale value are often the best-selling new car models, particularly when they have desirable options such as power steering, cruise control, and air conditioning. If you wind up paying a bit extra than you had expected for the perfect used car, it is not a big concern. In the long run, you will be much better of having a car that you are happy with rather than one that was a bit cheaper.

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